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Mara Reed, research and development manager, shows how the department makes cosmetics during a demonstration Tuesday at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, adds ingredients Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

The research and development team works Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Bailey Stonebraker, research and development technician, works on a formula Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, talks about future expansion Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, talks about the process of making different cosmetics for companies Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Different ingredients line the shelves in the R&D department Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

HANSEN — Inside a glass beaker, a glittery, glistening cyclone begins to form. A white magnet, shaped like a tiny rod, sits at the bottom of the beaker connecting it with the stir plate below. When the device turns on, the magnet spins, ensuring everything combines.

Mara Reed stands nearby in a white lab coat, measuring each ingredient on a laboratory scale, using a pipet or wooden tongue depressor to transfer the liquids and powders to the beaker. She has access to more than 700 raw materials.

About 12 years ago, Reed started in the cosmetic industry as a lab technician. Now she is the research and development manager for Artisan Labs in Hansen.

“I fell in love with the process — it’s really fun to play with glitter every day,” Reed said, laughing. “That’s not a bad career choice.

“It’s a chance to not only be scientific and analytical but be creative as well.”

Artisan Labs opened its $3 million manufacturing plant in October. The business makes a wide range of products and cosmetics, including skincare, makeup, shampoo, conditioner, deodorant, lip balm and bubble baths, for other companies.

The company is working with about 25 brands, some of which you might find in local beauty retailers.

“We have a lot of brands, ranging from indie brands to brands you see in Ulta and Sephora,” Reed said. “They are all across the U.S. and internationally.”

The research and development lab has more than 100 active projects, most of which will be launching this year. The time it takes from receiving a brief on a new product to shipping is about nine months.

Hansen is a prime location for a cosmetic business, she said. The town has quick access to the interstate and the talent pool is already formed.

“We have a lot of food science abilities in this area,” she said. “It really crosses over well with the cosmetic science arena. We are finding a lot of qualified individuals here.”

The business has 25 employees, with plans to reach 50 by the end of 2023.

Junior chemist Bailey Stonebraker started with the company as an intern through the IdeA Network of Biomedical Research Excellence internship program.

In May, a new intern from the College of Southern Idaho will join the team.

“We can not only help them hone their lab skills but also introduce them to this industry that a lot of people just don’t really know about,” Reed said.

Artisan Labs wants to be active community members, she said. In addition to participating in Hansen Days, the company uses its digital sign out front to advertise for school home games and celebrate the graduating seniors.

“We are a larger company and we are growing, so the general question is, ‘What’s going to be our impact on Hansen?’” she said. “We want everyone to know that we are in it with them. We love this community.”

As the company grows, it has plans to continue expanding on its three-acre lot. One of the empty spaces upstairs will soon be home to a microbiological testing lab. The equipment will help the company demonstrate to clients that the products are clean and free of microbes. The testing will also show if the preservative combinations are working to kill microorganisms. Currently, that testing is done by a third party.

Consumer concern over preservatives is a trend Reed has seen recently. Artisan Labs has been developing alternative preservative combinations that are safe, environmentally friendly and protect the skin microbiome.

Learning how to read an ingredient label is the best thing consumers can do for their skin, she said.

“I know they can be intimidating,” she said. “A lot of them are really long or the ingredients named there are very chemically sounding.”

A quick internet search can lead to a wealth of data regarding health and environmental safety for each element.

One of her favorite ingredients is beta-glucan, sourced from mushrooms. It’s a humectant, meaning it helps to pull moisture into your skin.

“It performs similarly to sodium hyaluronate, except it lasts longer. It holds on to moisture longer in the skin,” she said. “I think this is a powerhouse ingredient and should be in everything.”

Mara Reed, research and development manager, talks about the process of making different cosmetics for companies Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, adds ingredients Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, shows how the department makes cosmetics during a demonstration Tuesday at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, talks about future expansion Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Bailey Stonebraker, research and development technician, works on a formula Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Different ingredients line the shelves in the R&D department Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

The research and development team works Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

See more photos and video at magicvalley.com

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“It’s a huge deal,” Southern Idaho Economic Development Executive Director Connie Stopher said. “Having a project of this size in Hansen is unheard of in recent memory.”

Mara Reed, research and development manager, shows how the department makes cosmetics during a demonstration Tuesday at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, adds ingredients Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

The research and development team works Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Bailey Stonebraker, research and development technician, works on a formula Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, talks about future expansion Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Mara Reed, research and development manager, talks about the process of making different cosmetics for companies Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

Different ingredients line the shelves in the R&D department Tuesday, April 19, 2022, at Artisan Labs in Hansen.

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